I used to repot my Monstera deliciosa on a schedule and wondered why it sulked every time. Now I lift the plant, read the root ball, and only move up one size when the roots hold the shape of the pot. Depth beats width under a top-heavy crown.
I settled the tag argument in my own collection with one finger. Running it out to the leaf edge tells you everything: a cut that breaks the margin belongs to Monstera deliciosa, and a hole that stays closed inside the blade belongs to its smaller look-alike.
For a whole year I moved my Monstera deliciosa around the room hoping the new leaves would open. They were simply juvenile. Now I compare the newest two blades, and if both are entire I wait for the next one instead of changing anything at all.
The mix killed more of my early Monstera deliciosa than any pest ever did. Now I blend equal parts bark, peat and perlite, top it with grit, and squeeze a damp handful before potting: if it holds together like clay it goes back in the bowl.
I used to cut every aerial root my Monstera deliciosa put out, which was exactly the wrong instinct. Now I keep them, steer the useful ones into the mix or onto the pole, and only take one at the collar when it genuinely blocks something in the room.
Keeping a Monstera deliciosa with animals in the house is a placement question rather than a ban. I sweep every trimming off the floor, empty the saucer, cover the surface with stones, and wear gloves whenever I handle the lowest leaves or a cut stem.
Caring for a Pothos comes down to three habits I keep every week. I water on dry-down instead of a schedule, hold it in bright indirect light, and pot it in a mix with real air in it. That is what brings the leaves in at full size.
A yellow leaf on a Pothos is a reading, not a verdict. I check which leaves turned, how many went at once, and how wet the mix still is underneath, because one low leaf and five at once mean two different things.
A Pothos with rot still comes back if about half its roots are firm. I squeeze them first, cut only what is hollow, then move the plant into a pot sized to what survived rather than to the leaves above it.
Watering a Pothos on a schedule is what kills it. I push a slim dowel to the bottom of the pot and read the damp line instead, because the surface dries days before the mix around the deepest roots does.