There is one feature of the Monstera aerial roots that tends to divide the plant community. Some people love it for its wild, untamed, “I live in a jungle” aesthetic. Others find it… disturbing.
I’m talking about aerial roots. As your Monstera matures, you’ll notice strange, brown, worm-like tendrils shooting out from the main stem. At first, they are small nubs. Then they get longer. And longer. Before you know it, they are halfway across the floor, reaching for your furniture or curling around the pot like an octopus.
The most common question I get from new owners isn’t about water or light; it’s: “What are these ugly things, and can I cut them off?” While proper light and soil are the foundation of Monstera deliciosa care, treating aerial roots as a nuisance to be snipped away means you are missing out on one of the plant’s most powerful growth hacks.
In this guide, I am going to explain exactly what these structures are (they aren’t just roots), why your plant is making them, and the three expert ways to handle them. Whether you choose to cut, bury, or train them will determine whether your plant stays a manageable houseplant or transforms into the giant beast it was meant to be.
Table of Contents
The Biology: What Are Monstera Aerial Roots?
To understand the aerial root, you have to look at the plant’s natural habitat. The Monstera deliciosa is not a tree; it is a climber. It starts life on the rainforest floor but quickly realizes that the light is way up in the canopy. To get there, it needs two things: an anchor and a water source.
Aerial roots solve both problems. For a scientific look at how these structures work in nature, you can read about the Monstera’s epiphytic climbing habits from the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
- The Anchor: When the plant climbs a tree, these roots shoot out and grip the bark. They act like grappling hooks, physically holding the heavy vine against the trunk so it doesn’t fall down.
- The Straw: This is the part most people miss. In the humid rainforest, these roots don’t just hold on; they absorb moisture from the air, the moss on the tree bark, and the rain running down the trunk.

In your living room, your plant doesn’t know it’s not in the jungle. It produces these roots because it is genetically programmed to search for a tree. When you see a long aerial root reaching across your carpet, it isn’t trying to trip you; it is desperately feeling around for a trunk to grab onto.
Option 1: The “Expert” Choice (Bury Monstera Aerial Roots)
If you want your Monstera to grow leaves the size of a dinner plate with massive fenestrations (splits), this is the method you must use. Don’t cut the roots. Instead, bury Monstera aerial roots to fuel growth.
When an aerial root grows long enough, I gently guide it back into the soil of the pot. You might have to bend it slightly (be careful not to snap it). Poke a hole in the soil with your finger and tuck the tip of the aerial root inside.

Something fascinating happens when you do this. The root senses the dark, moist soil and transforms. It changes from a hard, woody air root to a functional, water-absorbing ground root. It develops fine root hairs and starts drinking. You have essentially given your plant an auxiliary straw.
Now, the plant can pull up double the amount of water and nutrients—once through the main central root system, and again through these new “back-fed” aerial roots. This massive influx of resources is what fuels the explosive growth of giant leaves.
If you have a moss pole (which you should), you can also guide the aerial roots into the damp moss. Learning how to stake a Monstera effectively allows these roots to burrow inside and drink from the pole itself, creating a vertical root system.
Option 2: The “Aesthetic” Choice (Cut Monstera Aerial Roots)
Maybe you don’t care about having the biggest plant in the world. Maybe you just want it to look tidy, and those brown tendrils are ruining the vibe of your living room. Can you cut Monstera aerial roots? Yes.
Cutting off aerial roots will not hurt the plant. They are non-essential in a home environment because you are watering the pot manually. The plant doesn’t need them to survive because it’s not actually hanging off a tree.

However, there are rules to the chop:
- Use clean tools: Sterilize your shears with alcohol first to prevent infection.
- Cut close to the stem: Snip the root off right where it emerges from the main vine, but be careful not to nick the stem itself.
- Expect regrowth: The plant will likely try again. Cutting them off signals to the plant that “I failed to find a tree,” so it might send out another one from the next node up.
This method keeps the plant looking clean and sculptural, but be aware that you are limiting its maximum potential size. A plant without aerial support often grows slower.
Option 3: The “Lazy” Choice (Let Monstera Air Roots Be)
You can also just do nothing. Let them grow. Let them hang. This results in a wild, “Jungalow” look that many people love. The roots will grow until they hit the floor, and then they might coil up.
The only risk here is damage to your home. Monstera air roots are strong. If they find a porous surface—like a painted wall, a wooden floor, or a wicker basket—they might try to attach to it. I have seen aerial roots dig into drywall, peeling the paint when the owner tried to move the plant months later. If you let them run wild, just keep an eye on where they are attaching.
Troubleshooting: What Your Aerial Roots on Monstera Are Telling You
Believe it or not, aerial roots on Monstera can also be a diagnostic tool.
- Shriveled and Dry: If the aerial roots look thin, crispy, and withered, your humidity is too low. The plant is trying to drink from the air, but the air is bone dry. A humidifier will keep them plump and functional.
- Black and Mushy: If an aerial root turns black and squishy, it is rotting. This usually happens if the root is sitting in a saucer of water or if the humidity is stagnant and cold. Snip it off immediately so the rot doesn’t travel back into the main stem.
- Growing aggressively fast: This is a good sign! It means your plant is in an active growth phase. It has excess energy and is looking for more resources. Take advantage of this energy by guiding those roots into the soil or a moss pole.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I propagate Monstera aerial roots?
You cannot propagate Monstera aerial roots by themselves. An aerial root will never grow leaves or a new stem on its own. It is purely a root. However, if you take a stem cutting that includes a node and an aerial root, that aerial root will give the cutting a huge head start in rooting. I explain how to leverage this technique in my guide on how to propagate Monstera.
Can I put aerial roots in a jar of water?
Yes! This is a popular hack. Since Monstera air roots love moisture, if you place the long tendrils into a jar or vase of water sitting next to the pot, the plant will drink from it like a straw. You will see a significant boost in leaf size.
Why does my plant have no aerial roots?
It might be too young. Aerial roots are a sign of maturity. A juvenile plant (with small, solid leaves) focuses on underground roots first. Once it starts climbing and producing split leaves, the aerial roots will appear.
Conclusion
Monstera aerial roots are not a defect; they are a feature. They are the plant reaching out to you, asking for stability and water. How you handle them is a personal choice. You can chop them for a clean look, or you can train them for a massive plant.
But realizing that these “ugly” brown sticks are actually advanced biological tools gives you a new appreciation for the complex, living organism sitting in your corner. Make your choice, and own it.
You’ve got this. Happy training!